Machine for making trimmings for the edges of fabrics



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D. C. BELLIS. MACHINE FOR MAKING TRIMMINGS FOR THE EDGBS 0F FABRICS. No.431,161. Patented July 1,1890.

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D. vC. BELLIS. MACHINE FOR MAKING TRIMMINGS FOR THE BDGES 0F FABRICS:No. 431,161. Patented July 1, 1890.

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D. O. -BELLIS. MACHINE FOR MAKING TRIMMINGS FOR THE EDGES 0P FABRICS.

Patented July 1, 1890.

v UNITED STATES PATENT'OFFICE.

DAVID C. BELLIS, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

MACHINE FOR MAKING TRIMMINGS FOR THE EDGES 0F FABRICS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 431,161 dated July 1,1890.

Application filed February 3, 1890. Serial No. 339,031- (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, DAVID C. BELLIs, a citizen of the United States, andresiding at the city of Philadelphia, in the county of Philadelphia andState of Pennsylvania, have invented certain new and useful Improvementsin Machines for Making Trimmings for the Edges of Fabrics, of which thefollowing is a specification. 1

The object of my invention is to provide a machine with compact andefficient mechanism or with attachments applied thereto,

whereby it is rendered available for making trimmings or vborders forthe edges of fabrics in which a row of stitches is formed on the fabricclose to or over the edge thereof and with a continuous cord or tapeconfined or secured by certain of said stitches and looped beyond theedge of the fabric, so as to form the loops thereof, or with one or moretapes,

cords, or ribbons disposed over and under the respective bars orpillars, or with one or more cords twisted alternately in oppositedirections around said bars or pillars and across said loops, and withribbons, cords, or tapes alternately disposed overand under said bars orpillars between or adjacent to the cords twisted together around saidbars or pillars and extending across said loops. 7

My invention consists of the construction, arrangement, and combinationof parts or attachments in a machine and of mechanism for actuating thesame for making such trimmings for the edges of fabrics.

The nature and characteristic features of my invention will be morefully understood from the following description, taken in con nectionwith the accompanying drawings, forming part hereof, and in which Figure1 is an elevation of a sewing-machine provided with attachmentsembodying 1 the particular features of myinvention. Fig. 2 is a top orplan view thereof with the needle-bar and upper portions of the machineremoved, and also showing the cam-cylinder and the mechanism foractuating theprincipal parts of or attachment to the machine of myinvention. Fig. 3 is an end elevation thereof, showing the cloth-tablein section and with the rear portion of the machine removed, and showingalso the braiding mechanism of the machine. Fig. 4 is a verticaltransverse section of the rear portion of machine, taken on the lines a:a; of Fig. 2, and with the twisting mechanism shown in applicationthereto. Fig. 5 is an elevation of the cloth-table, showing a portion ofthe twisting and braiding mechanism applied thereto and a modifiedconstruction of the mechanism for actuating the ribbon or tape guides.Fig. 6 is a perspective view of a portion of the looping attachment andshowing the finger or bodkin and the spring-actuated latch for loopingthe cords.

Fig. 7 is a perspective view of a portion of the braiding attachment,showing two sets of cord or tape guides for braiding more than twotapes, and also showing a portion of the mechanism for actuating thesame. Fig. 7 is a perspective view showing the relative positions of theribbon or tape guides with reference to the loops and to the edge of thefabric during the operation of the machine. Fig. 8 is a perspective viewof an attachment and its actuating mechanism for forming two rows ofsuperposed loops and showing the relative positions of the two fingersor bodkins and'of the twospringslatches and the cam-cylinder foraotuating'the same. Fig.9 is aperspective view of the mechanism fortwisting three rows, each consisting of two cords together alternatelyin opposite directions around the bars or pillars, and also showing therelative position of the details or parts with reference to the edge ofthe fabric. Fig. 10 is a diagram illustrating the particular features ofa border or edging made in accordance with my invention and having a rowof stitches formed on'the fabric over the edge thereof and a continuouscord confined by certain of said stitches and looped beyond the latterso as to form parallel continuous bars or pillars extending outward fromthe row of stitches and two cords twisted together alternately inopposite directions around and between said bars or pillars. Fig. 11 isa diagram of a similar border, having in addition to the row of twistedcords a braid or ribbon laid parallel with and contiguous to the edge ofthe fabric and lying alternately under and over the bars or pillars.Fig. 12 is a diagram of a similar border having two braids, tapes, orribbons disposed over and under the pillars or bars of the trimming andin proximity to the row of twisted cords surrounding said bars orpillars and extending across the loops formed by said bars or pillars.Fig. 13 is a diagram of a similar border having rows of braid or ribbondisposed alternately between the rows of twisted cord. Fig. it is adiagram of a similar border with the twisted cords omitted, and in whichsix parallel rows of braid, cord, or ribbon are woven or laidalternately above and below the pillars or bars. Fig. 15 is a diagram ofa similar border having two rows of superposed loops and five parallelstrips of tape or ribbon of varying width disposed alternately over andunder the said loops. Fig. 1G is a diagram of a similar border havingtwo superposed rows of loops and two strips of braid or ribbon and onerow of twisted cord ar 'anged over and under said loops. Fig. 17 is adiagram of a similar border having two superposed rows of loops and twoparallel rows of braid or ribbon alternated with rows of twisted cord;and Fig. 18 is a diagram of a similar border having two superposed rowsof loops and showing three parallel rows of braid alternated with rowsof twisted cord.

My invention may be advantageously applied to various types ofsewing-machines, but preference is given to those especially adapted forthe formation of over-edge stitches for the following reasons: first,because a crochet or over-edge binding is produced upon the cut or rawedge of the fabric; second, because the pillars or bars may be drawncompletely out to the edge of the fabric, and third, because thefinished border or edging presents substantially the same appearancewhen viewed from either side of the fabric.

In order to fully illustrate and explain the nature and characteristicfeatures of my invention a brief description thereof in application to aso-called union special sewingmachine will be given; but beforeproceeding with this description the elements of the sewingqnachinewhich operate in conjunction with my invention will be pointed out,reference being had to the accompanying drawin gs, in which A is theframe or housing of the sewingmachine.

a is the cloth plate or table for supporting the fabric.

A is a centrallylocated horizontal shaft supported in suitable bearingsformed in the frame A and having a pulley A and a spurwheel or pinion Akeyed thereto.

B is a stationary horizontal stud or counter-shaft secured to of formedintegral with the upper portion of the frame A. The camfaced spur-wheelB, meshing with the pinion A is mounted loosely upon this stud or shaftB.

I or housing A.

' curved arm c elements of the well-known and familiar sewing-machine,which operate in conjunction with my improved attachments, a descriptionof the various parts of the attachments themselves will now be given.

0, Figs. 1, 2, 3, and l, is a vertical f'ame secured to or formedintegral with the frame This frame 0 is provided with twosimilarly-disposed horizontal arms O, as hereinafter more fullydescribed, and with a vertical lug C The horizontal arms C are providednear the center thereof with journals and at or near the extremitiesthereof with apertures adapted for the reception of two parallelhorizontal rods or guides C. The cam cylinder or drum D, mounted on thespindle d, is adapted to revolve in the bearings formed in the arms 0'of the bracket 0.

c is a spur-wheel or pinion, either formed integral with the cam-wheel Bor made separate in the usual manner and keyed or otherwise securedthereto. c is a spur-wheel meshingwith the pinion e and keyed to therear extremity of the spindle (Z for imparting a rotary motion to thecam-cylinder D when the machine is in operation.

The velocity of rotation of the cam-cylinder D with reference to theshaft A materially affects the character of the work done by themachine, as is hereinafter more fully explained, and the velocity ofrotation of the canrcylinder D with reference to the shaft A may bereadily increased or diminished by substituting larger or smaller wheelsfor the wheels c and 6.

6*, Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 6, is a cross head adapted to slide at rightangles to the edge of the fabric upon the parallel rods or guides C.

c is a roller pivotally mounted upon a stud secured to the cross-head cand adapted to travel in the closed cam (1 formed upon the surface ofthe cam-cylinderD toward the forward end thereof.

6 is a horizontal linger or bodkin located parallel with and near to theupper surface of the cloth plate or table a, and secured to thecross-head c by means of the downwardly- The arm 6 is provided with alug c for actuating the spring-latch f. The bodkin or finger e isprovided near the ex tremity thereof with an eye c for the reception ofthe cord or tape which forms the loops of the finished border or edging.

f is abracket secured to the cloth plate or table a and adapted for thereception of the latch f. This latch f is provided with a hook- ITOshaped extremity and with a lug f adapted to contact with the lug a.

f is a spring secured to the bracket f and adapted to maintain the latchf in a normally-closed position.

When the cam-cylinder D is revolved the roller e traverses the closedcam d and causes the cross-head c and with it the bodkin or finger e",to reciprocate backward and forward, and the closed cam d is soproportioned as that the bodkin or finger 6 travels backward until thelug e contacting with the lug f opens or raises the latch f andmaintains it for a short time in an open position, and then the bodkinor finger traveling forward to the left of the needle permits the springf to close or depressthe latch f.

g is a link pivotally connected at one end thereof to the vertical lug Cand provided at or near its central portion with a lozengeshapedtraveler g, pivotally secured thereto. This traveler g is adapted totraverse the closed cam (1 formed upon the surface of the cam-cylinderD, toward the rear .portion thereof. v

g is a rock-shaft, located transversely of the machine and pivot-allysupported in bearings secured to the frame A and provided with twosimilar arms 9 and g secured to the respective extremities thereof.

g is a link pivotally secured at the respective extremities thereof tothe arm g and to the link g.

g is a horizontal rack located beneath the cloth plate or table a andadapted to be reciprocated in suitable bearings secured thereto. v

g is a link pivatally secured at the respective ends thereof to therackg and to the arm g and provided with a turn-buckle g for adjustingand controlling the amplitude of the reciprocations of the rack g. \Vhenthe camcylinder D is rotated the traveler g, traversing the closed cam(1 causes the link g to oscillate backward and forward through a part.of theme of a circle. The closed cam d is so proportioned as that thelink g pauses during a brief interval of time at the respective ends ofits swing. The motion of this link 9 is transmitted by means of the linkg rock-shaft g and link g to the rack g and causes the latter to.reciprocate alternately toward the right and left and also to pause atthe end of each stroke.

The clot-h plate or table a is cut away in the rear of the needle, Figs.1 and 4, for the reception of the hollow tube or cylinder h. This tubeor cylinder h is adapted to revolve in suitable bearings secured to thecloth plate or table a, and is provided at or near the center thereofwith a spur-wheel h, meshing with the rack g.

k Fig. 9, are jaws extending toward the needle and provided with eyes 71for the reception of the cords l and 1. When the rack g is reciprocatedbackward and forward, as is above set forth, the tube h and jaws 7L2revolve first toward the right and then pause, and finally revolvetoward the left, and so in regular succession the above operationthereof is repeated.

Referring to the drawings, and especially to Figs. 2, 3, 5, 7, and 7thereof, land 2" are vertical posts having vertical slots 2' and iformed therein, and these posts are susceptible of being raised andlowered in bearings secured to the cloth plate or table a. These posts1' and z" are held normally in a depressed position by means of springs'6 either wound spirally around the posts, as shown in Fig. 3, or formedin the manner as shown inFig. 5.

i and i are ribbon or tape guides secured to the posts t and 1'',respectively, and extending toward the needle.

i is a lug depending downward from the ribbon-guide 11 and extendingthrough-and beneath the cloth plate or table a for guiding the edge ofthe work.

i and 1', Figs. 2, 5, and 7, are wedge-shaped cams, screwed or otherwisesecured to the rack g and engaging in the slots 1' and "i of the postsz'and 71'. These cams i and i are so proportioned that during theoperation of the machine the posts i and i are alternately raised andlowered and permitted to pause during a brief interval of time at thetermination of each stroke.

In Fig. 7 the posts '6 and i, and the ribbonguides 72 and 1', consistingof aseries of tubes or. channels, are preferably made in one piece.

The operation of the machine is as follows: The sewing-machine is drivenin the usual or in any preferred manner, and the fabric is continuouslyfed into the machine, care being exercised to maintain the edge of thefabric in contact with the lug F, in order to insure the formation ofthe line of over-edge stitches as illustrated in Figs. 10 to 18,inclusive, along the edge of the fabric. lVhile the stitch-formingmechanism forms acertain number of overedge stitches is along the edgeof the fabric, the finger or bodkin a, carrying the cord 70, movingforward presents the cord 70 beneath one of the over-edge stitches 0c.The finger or bodkin 6, then traveling backward, raises the latch-f andcarries the cord 70 beneath the same. During the formation of the nextseries of stitches the bodkin or finger 6, moving forward, permits thelatch f to close, and leaving the cord is, caught up by the hook of thelatchf, Fig. 6, and again presents the cord k beneath another one of theover-edge stitches'oc', thus completing the loop By the repetition ofthis process the raw or cut edge of the fabric is bound or confined witha continuous row of over-edge stitches 7t, and the cord kissimultaneously IIO secured to the edge of the fabric by certain of thesestitches, designatedby the letter 00 in the accompanying drawings. Itmaybe remarked that instead of securing the cord it by every fourthstitch ac',it maybe secured by every second, third, or other preferrednumber of stitches. This result maybe readily accomplished by removingthe spur-wheels e and e and replacing them with similar spur-wheelshaving a different ratio of diameters. Although the cord 71) isrepresented in the drawings as secured to the upper surface of thefabric near the edge thereof, still the cord may be drawn from thesurface of the fabric to the edge by increasing the tension exerted bythe hook-shaped latch f upon the loop it It is obvious that twosuperposed rows of loops 7& and 7;, Figs. 8 and H to 18, inclusive,instead of one row of loops, may be readily formed by employing twobodkins or fingers and two latches, as illustrated in Fig.8, andpermitting the same to operate alternately. \Vhile the raw or cut edgeof the fabric is being confined by the over-edge stitches and while theloops 7e are being formed the ascending and descending guides and 1',Figs. 7*, braid or lay the cords, tapes, or ribbons 7t alternately underand over the pillars or bars 7& of the loops 711 Of course the number ofcords, ribbons, or tapes employed may be increased or diminished, as maybe preferred or required.

During the formation of the loops 75* the cylinders or tubes 7b arerevolved inter1nit tently in'alterna-te directions, and the jaws 7L2,Fig. 9, thereof twist the cords Z and Z around the bars or pillar 7& andacross the loops 7& alternately in opposite directions.

It will be obvious to those skilled in the art to which my inventionappertains that parts thereof may be employed separately. For example,the loop-forming mechanism illustrated in Fig. 6 may be used alone or inconnection with the twisting mechanism illustrated in Fig. 9, or withthe braid or ribbon laying mechanism illustrated in Figs. 7 and 7, orwith both. It will be also evident that modifications may be made in thedetails and construction of the parts to adapt them to the differenttypes of sewing-machines without necessarily departing from the spiritof my invention.

Having thus described the nature and objects of my invention, what Iclaim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. The combination, in a sewing-machine, of a needle and stitch-formingmechanism, a spring-latch, a loop-forming finger adapted to reciprocatein front of the needle and to contact with said spring-latch, acord-twister located in front of the needle and adapted to rotatealternately in opposite directions, a ribbon-guide rising and descendingin front of the needle, and means for actuating said cord twister,ribbon guide, loop-finger, and spring-latch, substantially as and forthe purposes set forth.

2. The combination, in a sewing-machine, of a needle and stitch-formingmechanism, a spring-latch, a loop-forming finger, a cordtwist-er infront of the needle, and means to actuate said cord-twister andloop-forming finger, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

3. The combination, in a sewing-machine, of a needle, stitch and loopforming mechanism, a cord-twister located in front of the needle, andmeans to actuate said cord-twister, substantially as and for thepurposes set forth.

4. The combination, in a sewing-machine, of a needle and stitch-formingmechanism, a finger or bodkin, a spring-latch, and means to reciprocatesaid finger or bodkin alternately past the needle in a straight courseand to cause the same to contact with said spring-latch, substantiallyas and for the purposes set fort-h.

5. The combination, in a sewing-machine, of a needle and stitch-formingmechanism, a finger provided with an eye, a spring-latch provided with ahook adapted to contact with the cloth-plate, a lug located on saidfinger, and means to intermittently reciprocate said finger in a forwarddirection beneath and in advance of said needle and rearward to contactwith said spring-latch, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

6. The combination, in a sewing-machine provided with a needle andstitch-forming mechanism, of a spring-latch, a cam located above thecloth-plate, a carriage adapted to be reciprocated intermittently in astraight course and having a roller engaging with said cam, a fingersecured to said carriage and adapted to advance in front of said needleand to contact with and actuate said latch, and means to revolve saidcam, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

7. The combination, in a sewing-machine, of a needle, stitch and loopforming mechanism, a cam, a cam-bar supported in bearings attached tothe under side of the cloth-plate, a normally-depressed tape-guidelocated in front of the needle and engaging with said cam-bar, and meansengaging with said cam for reciprocating said cam-bar, substantially asand for the purposes set forth.

8. The combination, in a sewing-machine provided with a needle andstitch and loop forming mechanisms, of a rock-shaft provided with anarm, a rack, spindles provided with jaws having eyes formed therein, andsaid spindles supported in suitable bearings, a pinion attached to saidspindles and meshing with said rack, a link connected with said rack,and the arm of said shaft having a turnbuckle, substantially as and forthe purposes set forth.

9. The combination, in a sewing-machine provided with a needle andstitch and loop forming mechanisms, of a rock-shaft having an arm, arack, hollow spindles provided with jaws having eyes formed therein, andsaid spindles supported in suitable bearings adjacent to the needle,pinions upon the hollow spindles meshing with said rack, and a linkconnected with said rack and arm, substantially as and for the purposesset forth.

10. The combination, in a sewing-machine, of a needle and mechanism forforming loops and stitehin g the same to afabric, tape-guides located infront of the needle, lugs for directing the fabric secured to saidguides and depending through recesses formed in the clothplate, andmeans for actuating said guides, substantially as and for the purposesset forth.

11. In a sewing machine provided with mechanism for forming loops andstitching the same to a fabric, the combination of a rack adapted toslide in bearings located beneath the cloth-plate, cams secured to saidrack, cord-twisters provided with pinions meshing therewith, tape orribbon guides engaging with said cams, and means for reciprocating saidrack, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

12. The combination, in a sewing-machine, of a needle and stitch-formingmechanism, hollow spindles provided with jaws and supported inhorizontal bearings, spur-wheels attached to said spindles,a rackadapted to engage with said spur-wheel,bodkins or fingers attached to acarriage, and means to intermittently reciprocate said rack andcarriage, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

13. The combinatiomin a sewing-machine, of a needle and a stitch-formingmechanism adapted to form a row of stitches along the edge of a fabric,a loop-forming mechanism adapted to form depending looped bars orpillars which are confined by certain of said stitches to the edge ofthe fabric, a twisting mechanism adapted to lay together two or morecords or tapes alternately in opposite directions around said bars orpillars and across said loops, and means for actuating the severalrecited parts of the machine, substantially as and for the purposes setforth.

14. The combination, in a sewing-machine, of a needle and stitch-formingmechanism, two fingers or bodkins located the one above the other, twospring-latches, and means for alternately reciprocating said fingers instraight lines in advance of the needle and into contact with and forthe actuation of said latches,substantially as and for the purposes setforth.

15. The combination, in a sewing-machine, of a needle and stitch andloop forming mechanism, a slotted tape-guide located in front of theneedle, springs, adapted to normally depress said guide, a cam engagingin the slot of said guide and said cam adapted to elevate said guide,and means for reciprocating said cam, substantially as and for thepurposes set forth. 1

16. The combination, in a sewing-machine, of a needle and stitch andloop forming mechanisms, slotted tape or ribbon guides located in frontof the needle, springs adapted to normally depress said guides, camsadapted to engage in said slotted guides, means to reciprocate saidcams, and a cord-twister and mech anism adapted to lay together two ormore cords in opposite directions around the loops of the fabric,substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

In witness whereof I have hereunto set my signature in the presence oftwo subscribing witnesses.

DAVID C. BELLIS.

Witnesses:

GEO. W. REED, THOMAS M. SMIT

